On our first full day around Eger we drove out to Szilvásvárad to do the Szalajka Valley hike. Our planning notes put the village about half an hour from Eger, so it was an easy morning trip, and the valley is one of the best-known places in the Bükk National Park for a walk. We did it the lazy-smart way: we took the little forest train up the valley, the first one of the day at 9:30, about fifteen minutes in an open wagon, and then walked the four kilometres back down. If you are looking for a gentle, rewarding half day in the Bükk, with a waterfall, a cave and a plate of local trout, this is what our version looked like, including the parts that did not quite live up to the brochure.
Szalajka Valley hike at a glance
- Start: Szilvásvárad, Szalajka Valley (Bükk National Park)
- Our route: Forest train up (about 15 min), walk back down
- Walking distance: about 4 km one way
- Route file (Hiiker): about 8 km as a round trip; we only walked the downhill 4 km
- Park-service trail figures: 3.71 km one way, 282 m of ascent, with the Istállós-kő cave as a marked stop (from the Bükk National Park track)
- Train: €13 (see notes), first departure 9:30, about 15 minutes to the end of the line
- Our time: about 2 hours, including lunch
- Difficulty: easy, mostly a valley path
- Highlights: Fátyol waterfall, the cave, the stream, trout restaurants
- Drive from Eger: about 30 minutes by our planning notes
- When we walked it: early October
Why we took the train up and walked down
The valley path climbs gently, and the forest train runs along it. The idea is simple: ride up, then walk back, so that the whole way is downhill. It worked well for us. The ride is short, only about fifteen minutes from the 9:30 departure to the end of the line, and it cost us €13, but it is a pleasant way to start, sitting in an open wagon behind a small red locomotive with the autumn forest around you, and it sets the tone for a relaxed day rather than a serious hike.
Walking down gave us all the time we wanted. The distance back is only about four kilometres, and if you do nothing but walk, it will take you well under the time we spent. We were not in a hurry and we stopped whenever something caught our eye, so a short route turned into a slow morning.
The Istállós-kő cave and the dead end
From the end of the line we went to the cave first. There are clear signs pointing the way to the Istállós-kő cave, so you will not struggle to find it. In the cave itself, a large rock shelter, we stopped for a photo. The path to it, though, turned out to be a dead end: we reached the end of the cave trail and had to retrace our steps back to the main trail. If you follow the signs, expect to walk the same stretch twice, and plan a little extra time for it.
Near the cave trail we also saw something we have not stopped thinking about. A black animal, about the size of a dog, moved through the woods not far from us. We only had a glimpse, so we do not know what it was, and we will not pretend to. It was a good reminder that the Bükk is real forest, not just a day-trip park.
The Fátyol waterfall: not as impressive as we hoped
After the cave, on the way down, we passed the Fátyol waterfall, also known as the Veil Waterfall, one of the valley’s best-known stops. To be honest, we did not find it very impressive. There was only a limited flow of water when we were there, so what we saw was a shallow, terraced cascade rather than a curtain of falling water. That is a matter of timing, not of the place itself, and we do not want to put you off. But if the waterfall is your main reason for coming, it is worth checking after a wetter spell, and it is better to arrive with modest expectations than to be disappointed like we were.
Trout for lunch
The Szalajka Valley is known for its trout, and we did not leave without trying it. We had our lunch from a trout farm in the valley: local trout, fried, served with fries and a slice of lemon. With the train, the cave, the walk down and the lunch, we spent about two hours in the valley altogether. That is a very comfortable pace for a half day, and it left the rest of the afternoon free.
Following the route
We used the Hiiker app for our hikes in the Bükk. The route file for this valley is about eight kilometres as a round trip, which fits a four-kilometre walk each way, and our own walk was the four kilometres downhill. If you want to compare navigation apps, see our best hiking apps guide.
Tips
- Take the train up and walk down.
- Check how much water the stream carries before you go if you want a strong waterfall.
- Expect to retrace your steps after the cave, since the cave trail is a dead end.
- Plan about 2 hours with a lunch stop; walking alone is shorter.
- Pair it with a bigger hike: we walked the Lillafüred Green Loop on another day.
FAQ
How long is the Szalajka Valley hike?
It is about four kilometres one way. We took the 9:30 forest train up (€13, about 15 minutes) and walked back down. Including the cave detour and a trout lunch we needed about two hours.
Is the Szalajka Valley hike easy?
For us it was an easy, gentle walk, mostly downhill because we took the train up.
Does the path to the Istállós-kő cave go anywhere beyond it?
No. We reached a dead end at the cave and had to retrace our steps to the main trail.
Can you see wildlife in the Szalajka Valley?
We saw one black, dog-sized animal in the woods near the cave trail but could not tell what it was.
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